Coming off of the busy climate week events with policy makers and legislators, the big question is - how can Chefs or Food Leaders make a difference?
Earlier in my journey as an activist chef, I often found myself a bit intimidated by the PhDs in the room. I quickly found comfort and strength in knowing that I was there to learn and pass on this message to you. No one was looking to me for data insights or white papers. Rather, I was invited for my dedication to organic agriculture and my ability to translate that into delicious, edible impressions. As chefs, we can lean into our skills, redirect our egos into promoting better food for people and the planet.
What were the big takeaways from several years at Climate Week NYC and this year specifically?
As I reflect on several years at Climate Week NYC, I’m inspired by the incredible potential chefs have to drive meaningful change in our kitchens and communities. Here’s what I’ve taken away, especially this year, about how we can make a greater impact in our restaurants:
General Insights for Chefs and Food Leaders from Climate Week over the years
1. Sustainable Sourcing: It’s crucial to prioritize local and seasonal ingredients. Not only does this reduce our carbon footprint, but it also supports our local farmers and strengthens our communities. Including sources of only a few is better than none on your menu.
2. Waste Reduction: We need to get creative about minimizing food waste. Embracing composting, repurposing ingredients, and adopting zero-waste cooking techniques can transform our kitchens.
3. Plant-Based Focus: Let’s elevate plant-based dishes on our menus. They’re not just better for the planet; they’re also delicious and appealing to our guests.
4. Energy Efficiency: Investing in energy-efficient appliances and practices is a win-win. It cuts down on our energy consumption and saves us money in the long run. The big conversation now is about eliminating gas stoves in our kitchens, is this something you’re looking into?
5. Community Engagement: We have a responsibility to educate our communities about sustainability. Let’s engage with our guests and share the importance of climate action.
2024 Climate Week, This Year’s Highlights
1. Building Climate Resilience: We must acknowledge how climate change impacts our food systems and work to build resilience in our operations.
2. Collaborating with Farmers: Strengthening ties with farmers is essential. Let’s ensure we’re sourcing sustainably and transparently.
3. Innovative Menus: Our menus should reflect our commitment to sustainability. Let’s feature ingredients that are not only good for the planet but also excite our diners.
4. Staff Education: We need to invest in training our teams on sustainability practices. Fostering a culture of environmental responsibility starts from within.
5. Taking a Stand: As chefs, we have the power to advocate for climate-friendly policies in our industry. Let’s lead the charge and inspire others to join us.
By embracing these principles, we can truly make a difference in our kitchens and beyond. Together, let’s create a culinary landscape that prioritizes sustainability and positively impacts our planet.
Why is the global food system at risk, and what can chefs do about it?
Following my participation in several events themed around climate change; the Regenerative Healthcare Conference and New York Climate Week, where I cooked alongside chefs Grace Ramirez, Jose Luis Chavez, and Natacha Gomez at Mission Ceviche. The featured underutilized crops listed by the UN as part of VACS, or Vision for Adapted Crops and Soils. We will cook with these lesser-known ingredients listed to show the range of flavors and textures.
Here are some lesser-known, underutilized crops that chefs can incorporate into their menus:
Amaranth: A nutritious grain and leafy green, amaranth is high in protein and can be used in salads, porridge, or as a grain substitute.
Teff: This tiny grain is rich in fiber and protein, often used in Ethiopian injera. It can be cooked as a porridge or baked into bread.
Sunchokes (Jerusalem Artichokes): These tubers have a nutty flavor and can be roasted, pureed, or used in salads.
Fennel Pollen: Often overlooked, fennel pollen adds a unique, sweet, and slightly licorice flavor to dishes, making it great for seasoning meats and vegetables.
Mizuna: A Japanese mustard green with a peppery flavor, mizuna can be used in salads, stir-fries, or as a garnish.
Kohlrabi: This cruciferous vegetable has a mild, crunchy texture and can be eaten raw in salads or roasted for a sweeter flavor.
Celtuce: A type of lettuce with a long stem, celtuce is crunchy and can be used in salads or stir-fried dishes.
Black Garlic: Aged garlic with a sweet, umami flavor, black garlic can enhance sauces, dressings, and marinades.
Purslane: This succulent plant is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and can be used in salads, soups, or as a garnish.
Sea Beans (Salicornia): These salty, crunchy plants grow in coastal areas and can add a unique briny flavor to salads and seafood dishes.
Incorporating these crops not only diversifies menus but also supports biodiversity and sustainable agriculture.
Roughly 60% of what we consume in the world is derived from four crops, wheat, maze, rice and soy.
To make things worse, the majority of each of these commodities are monocropped in massive quantities and grown using the same seed genetics. The result is a global food system stripped of diversity in flavor, varietal intrigue, nutrient complexity and connection to regional food identity. This is why the system nearly collapsed during covid and why the war in Ukraine disrupted global wheat supply. It is also why we are getting sicker, fatter and more at risk of food related illnesses while our planet struggles to hold onto the sensitive balance of biodiversity.
What can ancient agricultural practices teach us about sustainability today?
To round out the series, I will be cooking alongside chef Asha Gomez for the World Food Prize Event in Iowa this October. This event will also feature VACS with a focus on the importance of agrobiodiversity. We will be joined again by The Crop Trust in partnership with Chef’s Manifesto. My feature will celebrate the Three Sisters of native agriculture - beans, corn, and squash. This ancient method of growing companion crops together has gained broader attention recently as regenerative agriculture has become more mainstream.
Here is how they work together and why it matters. Corn grows tall in the summer months when beans and squash also thrive. Planting beans between the corn provides a pole for the beans to vine up while adding nitrogen back to the soil for corn to share. Squash spreads along the available ground to provide a canopy cover that suppresses weeds and keeps the soil moist and cool. Together they make up the three sisters, which, in the spirit of “what grows together, goes together,” makes for an endless platform for amazing recipes.
Summarizing how chefs and food entrepreneurs support a more sustainable food system -
Choose lesser known ingredients over common commodities. It will make your menu more interesting.
Source heirloom or heritage varieties of common ingredients. They will taste far better, tend to only grow within the season they should and require thoughtful farmers to source, cultivate and supply. Meaning their practices are generally inline with the promises listed above.
What grows together, goes together. Just ask the three sisters! What is old is new again. Get on board.
Everything has its moment, place and purpose, even vegetables. If we as chefs stick to the micro seasonal expressions we are also supporting biodiversity buzzing about the fields and forests. The bees, butterflies and ladybugs will love you for it.
Buy the good stuff and don’t fuck it up. It's that simple. Nature does most of the work if you let her.